With the Summer Solstice just passed and the US July Fourth holiday screaming down on us, it's high time to think about serving fresh, light dishes. Here in the Mid-Atlantic, that usually involves crabs steamed in their shells, cracked at the table and devoured with a cold beer. And, our regional recipe books abound with cooked preparations too, some complex, yet many so simple as befitting a summer get-together. But despite the lure of crabs, other shellfish dishes can be equally tasty if not equally local.
This Lobster Imperial baked entree is inspired by a memorable repast experienced by culinary traveller Anthony Bourdain at Thomas Keller's legendary French Laundry. Despite his typical sardonic, smart-mouthed description in the book "A Cook's Tour", even he was awed by the chef's Lobster Navarin entree, a sweet-buttered gem adorned with glazed pearl onions, spring vegetables and the french country classic sauce.
Having been a great follower of Bourdain's tv adventures and knowing how things ended up for him, I struggled reading this book. His voice came through so clearly in his words that they were painful at many parts to read. But he had a tremendous sense of place, whether it was the vibe, the people or the food. He made them all come alive.
I especially relished the guidance he offered to others. "Eat at a local restaurant tonight. Get the cream sauce. Have a cold pint at 4 o'clock in a mostly empty bar. Go somewhere you've never been. Listen to someone you think may has nothing in common with you. Order the steak rare. Eat an oyster. Have a Negroni. Have two. Be open to a world where you may not understand or agree with the person next to you but have a drink with them anyways. Eat slowly. Tip your server. Check in on your friends. Check in on yourself. Enjoy the ride."
This book is a great example of the ones selected for our reading group, Cook the Books, which regularly shares reactions to a food-related book selected by one of its rotating hosts. This selection was chosen by Claudia of Honey from Rock. We thank her for organizing this round. http://honeyfromrock.blogspot.com.
Lobster Imperial
3 tbs unsalted butter at room temperature
1 medium shallot finely diced
1 large garlic clove finely diced
1 tbs flour
2 tbs dry white wine
3/4 cup milk
2 generous tbs sour cream or Mexican crema
1 tbs mayonnaise
1/4 tsp salt, shake of ground black pepper
1 tbs dry mustard
1 tbs fresh tarragon chopped fine
2 tbs fresh parsley chopped fine
1/2 cup grated parmesan
2 tbs shredded gruyere cheese plus 2 tbs to reserve
Preparation:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9x9 inch baking dish with parchment paper and set aside.
Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot, saute for a few minutes, then add the garlic, sauteing another few minutes. Add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon to make a light roux. Add the wine, continuing to stir. Then add the milk slowly, stirring to incorporate. Bring to the boiling point then simmer, adding the crema to incorporate. Toss in seasonings, stir in the lobster pieces along with the cheeses. The mixture will be very thick. Spoon mixture into the baking dish and top with the remaining gruyere cheese. Bake for 15 minutes or until the mixture is bubbling. Then place under a broiler briefly, 3-5 minutes till golden brown. Remove from oven.
This dish can be served immediately, or held for about 2 hours. It also refrigerates well and can be served reheated. Serve using the reserved shells for garnish and over lettuce leaves or a cooked green vegetable.
