The authentic foods of Italy’s Abruzzo region are so well hidden that not many people other than families who live or have roots there have had the pleasure of savoring them. Ringed by the Apennine Mountains and flanked by the Adriadic Sea, this region’s remote and inaccessible location compared to popular Italian tourist destinations like Rome and Florence has helped preserve longtime traditions. Luckily my own family hails from its seaside town of Giulianova along the Adriadic coast and my grandparents brought those culinary traditions to the US when they immigrated at the beginning of the 20th century.
To reconnect with family roots, cousins and I recently visited Abruzzo, staying in the tranquil medieval village of Roccacasale in the region’s L’Aquila province at the La Rocca Mia House. There, thanks to hosts Margaret and Dominic, we met artisanal food makers and experimented with preparing regional dishes. The pair specialize in making possible experiential travel and are happy to organize customized visits based on the interests of guests. For us they outdid themselv
Roccasale seems a place out of time. Strolling the streets of its oldest quarter, we encountered shrines dedicated to the Madonna, painted icons of various saints and breathtaking vistas at every turn. The shrines and icons clearly had weathered centuries and flowers had been placed at many of them in prayer and petition.
In the nearby town of Sulmona, Italy’s headquarters for sugared almond candies called “confetti”, we visited Ovidio, one of the premier makers of the treats given to family & friends at weddings and other special occasions.
It was a riot of pastel colors, decorative flower-like arrangements so beautiful we dared not think of eating any and bagged treats that we devoured before ever leaving the shop.
We also stopped by CASEIFICIO LEONE & C which sells cheeses made from sheep and goat’s milk procured from local shepherds. Yes shepherds, as sheep tending is a huge part of country culture in the mountains of Abruzzo
In our culinary adventures, we learned about iconic Abruzzese dishes which draw on the region’s mountainous, pastoral country culture, notably spaghetti or maccheroni alla chitarra, an egg pasta cut on “guitar” strings.
It’s made with a special cutting tool – a wooden frame stung with metal wires that cut the pasta into square rather than round strands. Or it also can be prepared by hand. The pasta typically is served with a sauce flavored with whole chunks of meat rather than ground meat and crushed red pepper flakes, also an Abruzzese standard.
I hope that sharing our adventures in Abruzzo will inspire readers to try a visit to this hidden gem before the rest of America discovers its pleasures. Arrivederci!
Maccheroni alla Chitarra (for 4 persons)
Ingredients:
For the Pasta:
1 ¼ cups semolina flour
1 cup unbleached all purpose flour
3 large eggs
Sprinkle of salt
For the Sauce:
½ cup olive oil
2 oz chopped pancetta
14 oz mixed meat cut into 1-inch pieces (lamb, pork, sausage, kielbasa can be used. To be truly authentic, restrict to lamb only)
14 oz chopped canned tomatoes
1 onion diced
1 carrot minced
1-2 pinches of salt
Optional: ½ cup red wine
Preparation:
Begin by preparing the sauce. Saute the onion and carrots until onions are translucent and carrots are softened. Add meats and pancetta. Cook, stirring, until meat has browned then add tomatoes and red wine if using. Simmer for ~1 hour or till meat is tender. Add water if sauce reduces too much. Check seasonings.
Prepare the pasta by combining the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until clumps form. Turn mixture out and knead till it forms a stiff ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature.. Cut dough into 4 pieces and roll into ~1/8th inch thick sheets. Set 3 of the sheets aside under a towel. Set the remaining sheet atop the chitarra and using a small rolling pin, roll back and forth over the dough to cut through it till the strands drop. Set noodles aside on a pan sprinkled with semolina and covered with dish towel. Repeat with each sheet. Bring salted water to a boil and cook the pasta for ~ 3 minutes until al dente. Drain.
Serve pasta covered with sauce and topped with parmesan cheese.
Optional: If the thought of using a specialize implement causes consternation, these noodles can also be cut by hand. Just roll the sheets up loosely, and using a sharp knife, cut the roll crosswise into 1/8th inch thick noodles. Toss the noodles with semolina flour and lay covered on a baking sheet until ready to cook.
